Whitsunday sunset sensation

When David Colfelt first published his guide to Australia’s finest cruising ground in 1985, his exhaustive, reliable detail on each nook and cranny of the Whitsunday islands has been, and continues to be, appreciated by all those who explore these turquoise waters. One must not leave home without a copy!

Named the 100 magic miles for a reason, there’s always a safe anchorage to go to no matter what the weather throughout the Cumberland Island group – or for marketing purposes, the Whitsundays.

Plenty of beach to explore

Time to watch one of nature's best shows

With constant south easterly winds blowing between 15 and 25 knots, our planned journey south was diverted to Plan B – go where the wind blows. Which actually should always be the only plan, as true cruising yachties will testify. So, in this case we re-entered the southern group of islands under headsail alone and made our way to the less frequented anchorage of Burning Point, on the western side of Shaw Island.

It's easier sailing with the wind behind you! Thought we'd do a fire pump drill on our way to seeking refuge at Shaw Island.

Avoiding the extensive fringing reef, we practiced our skills in dropping anchor while under sail and sat back and admired the view. We could see Lindeman Island with its deserted resort to the north, Seaforth Island opposite, and reflected on a previous adventure with our International 23 catamaran. And if I remember rightly, we were going against the breeze that time too!

The first Lady K beached at Seaforth Island, opposite Shaw Island, on our delivery trip from Mackay to Airlie Beach two years previously.

This time visiting the area we were a little more comfortable onboard our Peterson 43, but to access the beach we had to take the dinghy instead of beaching ashore. I’ll let the photos continue to do the talking on this stunning anchorage. If you wish, Lady Katherine can take you there!

Our calm anchorage in a 25 knot south easterly -  Lady Katherine in the distance

These mangrove roots provide a sanctuary for small marine life. We spotted a few rays and fish in the shallows on the shoreline.

Looking-glass mangrove (Heritiera littoralis)

Lindeman Island in the distance

Burning Point at its best

Whitsunday Cairn

The good thing about owning a boat in the Whitsundays is that you can get to all the island bushwalks; we can follow the Ngaro sea trail whenever we like. Last year we sailed on Lady Katherine to Cid Harbour and climbed Whitsunday Peak. In the new year we sailed to Hook Passage and climbed Whitsunday Cairn, the second highest point of the Whitsunday Islands at 386 metres above sea level.

Fabulous sail to Hook Passage on a south easterly breeze

The fringing reef from Cairn Beach to Scrub Hen Beach on the northern end of Whitsunday Island managed to come out relatively unscathed from Cyclone Debbie’s fury, so it’s a great snorkelling site on a falling tide. The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority thoughtfully installed a couple of moorings near the reef protection markers, which now makes visiting a little easier.

After a superb sail from Abell Point Marina in a 15 knot south easterly, we arrived in Hook Passage in time for a snorkel. There’s a real variety of hard and soft corals; including an area that looks like a green football field, with plenty of fish swimming around and the odd green turtle or two. It’s also a great spot to watch the sunset. Well, anywhere in and around the Whitsundays is really.

Hook Island sunset

It was an early dinghy ride into Cairn Beach the next morning for the near 5km return hike to the summit. While the brochure says allow 3 or more hours, it can be done well inside that time if you are fit and keep admiration of the amazing views to a minimum. 

Dinghy drop off at Cairn Beach - best avoided at low tide as too much exposed coral for beach access

Sturdy footwear and insect repellent recommended

Strangler fig taking over its next victim

For the first third, the trail is very steep through the dry vine forest, and overall it was a bit overgrown and rugged in some places, so hiking boots are the recommended footwear. Passing through hoop pine, eucalypt and grasstree forests with fern covered rock formations, the views from the foot of the imposing volcanic plug are spectacular. The Whitsunday Islands are truly beautiful and a must see from the highest points.

Ostrich fern in abundance

Grasstrees and eucalypts

Highest point on Whitsunday Island

Looking west to Whitsunday Passage and the mainland

Looking north east

While it was tempting to linger longer, time and tide wait for no man. We wanted to be ready to catch the outgoing tide to Bait Reef so it was time for me to head back down to shore and meet my water taxi to return to Lady Katherine.

Sawn hoop pine - the Whitsunday islands were logged last century for this smooth, very uniform, straight grain multi purpose soft wood 

Not all plants are friendly. Dendrocnide moroides or Gympie Gympie, is a native rainforest plant, but do not touch! It really, really hurts for months on end.

Cairn Beach - notice the strong tidal movement at the end of the passage

I’m looking forward to doing this walk again, but this time in the winter months when the Southern Humpback whales are about. If you fancy coming along for a Whale, Sail and Trail trip, then give us a shout!