Yacht delivery - Whitsundays to Brisbane

The water whooshes against the hull as it slides through the sea. The moon is high and bright: the near full orb commands the star filled sky, illuminating the white sails. There is no other sign of life on the inky water. It’s just me and the boat. Oh, and my two travelling companions asleep down below, and quite possibly an inordinate number of Southern humpback whales migrating south with us.

Without any moonlight, the night was as black as the inside of a cat.

Such solitude on my two-hour watch: I can see the attraction for the solo circumnavigator. However, I’m not skilled (or brave) enough for that so am pleased to rely on the experience of the master and mate for this 650 nautical mile journey.

Gary and Finch - first delivered a yacht together in 2001.

Fuel, water, gas, provisions, safety gear: check. We completed preparations ahead of schedule and last month departed Bowen Boat Harbour on a flood tide. Making way is everything on a sailing vessel so no time can be wasted, even though we had 10 days to get to Brisbane. Winds were light and the sky was clear and blue as we sailed through the Whitsunday Islands, our home cruising ground. As the sun descended so too did the breeze; just as the tide turned against us. It was time to turn on the dreaded iron headsail, but thankfully for only a brief stint.

Departing Bowen on Lady Katherine, a Peterson 43 Serendipity design

Only the tide is helping us make way towards Gloucester Island

The one and only time we fly the MPS - for about an hour before sunset on the first day.

As darkness was closing in it was also time to commence the watchkeeping roster, and a routine that was to become familiar over the next few days: sleep, eat, keep watch, snack, put a fix on the chart, gaze at the sea, point out any wildlife, repeat. The crew become part of the boat and take comfort in her rhythm and familiar creaks as she glides across the Coral Sea. We sailed through the night into the next day, and another night and day, until we anchored for an evening’s rest at North West Island, east of Gladstone, to wait for the turn of the tide.  

Giving way to a BYS off the Port of Gladstone

Sunset at North West Island. There were over 20 small vessels beached on shore inside the lagoon with many campers.

Next stop, Lady Musgrave Island, a wish list destination for many years. There was no way we were sailing past it this time! We timed it well to enter the vast 1192-hectare lagoon in the southern Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area: at low tide and during daylight hours for optimum coral visibility. I couldn’t wait to jump in for a snorkel, and wasn’t disappointed. We then dinghyed to the beach and stepped ashore (for the first time in three days) for a stroll around the 14-hectare coral cay. The island is thick with enormous Pisonia trees and the pungent smell of guano. So, this is where all the flocks of black noddy birds come to roost after flying around all day fishing.

Entering Lady Musgrave lagoon.

A silver tern checking us out

A solid night’s sleep was had by all as we, along with a dozen other vessels, anchored in the protected waters of the lagoon for the entire night. Bliss. Another stunning sunrise saw us setting off to Fraser Island, where for several hours we wouldn’t see anything on the horizon for as far as the eye could see. They say there are two types of sailors – those that get scared when they see land, and those who are scared when they don’t. I’m happy either way – it’s just a matter of getting used to it. Throughout the 12 hours of perfect broad reach sailing we saw five other vessels, one dolphin, a handful of wedgetail shearwaters and silver terns, two sea snakes and a dozen whales before dropping anchor at 2230 hours below Arch Cliff on the world’s largest sand island.

A lively sail as we departed Lady Musgrave, but the breeze soon eased for more champagne sailing conditions.

Albert the autopilot allowed us to rest up in the pit

Another sublime sunset on the water

Waking up to various buzzing sounds of outboard engines it was obvious we had arrived in civilisation – it was the weekend in Hervey Bay and the weather was perfect for boating. The wind was a little on the light side for us as we entered the Great Sandy Straits, but it did pick up enough for us to sail all the way through, navigating the channel and, much to our delight, keeping ahead of a catamaran. At one stage we were being overtaken by a trimaran, but he slowed down alongside to take photos and announce his past sailing endeavours on our boat with the previous owner. What a small world!

Moon Point, Fraser Island

It wasn't the first time that someone has come in close to tell us they have sailed on our boat in the past.

Early morning at Snout Point, Fraser Island

Before arriving at Inskip Point, we decided to anchor at Snout Point for the night and cross the bar on the correct tide during daylight hours. At lunchtime, as the line of 4WD traffic lengthened on the mainland beach waiting to cross to Fraser Island on the barge, we donned life jackets and followed the other waiting vessels through the mad mile and across the bar. With the tide against us, and the waves picking up, it was an enduring process but one we eventually came through unscathed.

Crossing the Wide Bay Bar

Time to hand steer for awhile. It doesn't look it but there was quite a swell behind us - we were travelling at about 8 knots!

This sunset off Rainbow Beach was by far the most colourful of the journey

As the sun set yet again on breaching whales and indifferent dolphins (it’s a cliché I know, but it’s true!) we settled in for our last overnight sail. We weren’t going to get it easy though. Now we were in the open ocean, no longer protected by the reef and so had a swell to contend with, and for the first time a south easterly breeze. Going into the breeze was slightly compensated by riding fast on the East Australian Current (remember Finding Nemo?) but we also had to contend with a lot more traffic and their confusing navigational lights. Is that a fishing boat with the intense white light? Is it heading towards us? Why has that Big Yacht Squasher stopped in front of me but still showing it is making way? The first hint of light brought a sigh of relief – it was a long night. A brief rest off Tangalooma saw us refreshed for the final sail into the Brisbane River. Although tired, spirits were lifted as we took in all the sights and sounds of a big city – past the Port of Brisbane, with a pod of dolphins, and under the Gateway Bridge, pointing out familiar landmarks as we made way on the tide to our destination at Kangaroo Point with a front row seat view of the Story Bridge. 

We made it. Seven nights and eight days – it was a trip of a lifetime. When can we do it again?

Entering the Port of Brisbane 

Making our way under the on the incoming tide up the Brisbane River

Alongside expensive Dockside Marina, and rather bouncy when the river cats speed by!
Conveniently close to all the action though. 

Whitsunday sunset sensation

When David Colfelt first published his guide to Australia’s finest cruising ground in 1985, his exhaustive, reliable detail on each nook and cranny of the Whitsunday islands has been, and continues to be, appreciated by all those who explore these turquoise waters. One must not leave home without a copy!

Named the 100 magic miles for a reason, there’s always a safe anchorage to go to no matter what the weather throughout the Cumberland Island group – or for marketing purposes, the Whitsundays.

Plenty of beach to explore

Time to watch one of nature's best shows

With constant south easterly winds blowing between 15 and 25 knots, our planned journey south was diverted to Plan B – go where the wind blows. Which actually should always be the only plan, as true cruising yachties will testify. So, in this case we re-entered the southern group of islands under headsail alone and made our way to the less frequented anchorage of Burning Point, on the western side of Shaw Island.

It's easier sailing with the wind behind you! Thought we'd do a fire pump drill on our way to seeking refuge at Shaw Island.

Avoiding the extensive fringing reef, we practiced our skills in dropping anchor while under sail and sat back and admired the view. We could see Lindeman Island with its deserted resort to the north, Seaforth Island opposite, and reflected on a previous adventure with our International 23 catamaran. And if I remember rightly, we were going against the breeze that time too!

The first Lady K beached at Seaforth Island, opposite Shaw Island, on our delivery trip from Mackay to Airlie Beach two years previously.

This time visiting the area we were a little more comfortable onboard our Peterson 43, but to access the beach we had to take the dinghy instead of beaching ashore. I’ll let the photos continue to do the talking on this stunning anchorage. If you wish, Lady Katherine can take you there!

Our calm anchorage in a 25 knot south easterly -  Lady Katherine in the distance

These mangrove roots provide a sanctuary for small marine life. We spotted a few rays and fish in the shallows on the shoreline.

Looking-glass mangrove (Heritiera littoralis)

Lindeman Island in the distance

Burning Point at its best

Whitsunday Cairn

The good thing about owning a boat in the Whitsundays is that you can get to all the island bushwalks; we can follow the Ngaro sea trail whenever we like. Last year we sailed on Lady Katherine to Cid Harbour and climbed Whitsunday Peak. In the new year we sailed to Hook Passage and climbed Whitsunday Cairn, the second highest point of the Whitsunday Islands at 386 metres above sea level.

Fabulous sail to Hook Passage on a south easterly breeze

The fringing reef from Cairn Beach to Scrub Hen Beach on the northern end of Whitsunday Island managed to come out relatively unscathed from Cyclone Debbie’s fury, so it’s a great snorkelling site on a falling tide. The Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority thoughtfully installed a couple of moorings near the reef protection markers, which now makes visiting a little easier.

After a superb sail from Abell Point Marina in a 15 knot south easterly, we arrived in Hook Passage in time for a snorkel. There’s a real variety of hard and soft corals; including an area that looks like a green football field, with plenty of fish swimming around and the odd green turtle or two. It’s also a great spot to watch the sunset. Well, anywhere in and around the Whitsundays is really.

Hook Island sunset

It was an early dinghy ride into Cairn Beach the next morning for the near 5km return hike to the summit. While the brochure says allow 3 or more hours, it can be done well inside that time if you are fit and keep admiration of the amazing views to a minimum. 

Dinghy drop off at Cairn Beach - best avoided at low tide as too much exposed coral for beach access

Sturdy footwear and insect repellent recommended

Strangler fig taking over its next victim

For the first third, the trail is very steep through the dry vine forest, and overall it was a bit overgrown and rugged in some places, so hiking boots are the recommended footwear. Passing through hoop pine, eucalypt and grasstree forests with fern covered rock formations, the views from the foot of the imposing volcanic plug are spectacular. The Whitsunday Islands are truly beautiful and a must see from the highest points.

Ostrich fern in abundance

Grasstrees and eucalypts

Highest point on Whitsunday Island

Looking west to Whitsunday Passage and the mainland

Looking north east

While it was tempting to linger longer, time and tide wait for no man. We wanted to be ready to catch the outgoing tide to Bait Reef so it was time for me to head back down to shore and meet my water taxi to return to Lady Katherine.

Sawn hoop pine - the Whitsunday islands were logged last century for this smooth, very uniform, straight grain multi purpose soft wood 

Not all plants are friendly. Dendrocnide moroides or Gympie Gympie, is a native rainforest plant, but do not touch! It really, really hurts for months on end.

Cairn Beach - notice the strong tidal movement at the end of the passage

I’m looking forward to doing this walk again, but this time in the winter months when the Southern Humpback whales are about. If you fancy coming along for a Whale, Sail and Trail trip, then give us a shout!

Sail, hike, snorkel the Whitsundays

We love it when our guests say, "you know the Whitsundays, we're not fussed where we go", so we hoisted Lady Katherine's sails and off we went to wherever the breeze would take us. 

Capturing the sailing action on board Lady Katherine

Never too young to start helming

First stop, Cid Harbour, for a choice of two bushwalks: the easy to moderate 3 kilometre return Dugong-Sawmill Track, or the difficult Whitsunday Peak. 

It was an early rise for the 'roof of the Whitsundays' walk, starting with a dinghy drop off to Sawmill Beach on the rising tide. Climbing 490 metres, the Whitsunday Peak track carves through diverse vegetation, from rainforest gullies to windblown heaths, finishing with spectacular views from the top. 

Sensible walking shoes are a must to enjoy the steep rocky climb to the top.

Cid Harbour view from Whitsunday Peak

Windswept grasstrees atop Whitsunday Peak

From Sawmill Beach, access to Dugong Beach via the walking track entails crossing Sawmill Creek, and getting wet feet if the tide is high.Winding through towering hoop pines and stands of giant rainforest trees and solitaire palms, this is a pretty walk suitable for all ages. 

The majestic hoop pine is a distinct icon of the Whitsunday islands. The species dates back some 200 million years. 

It was time to up-anchor, hoist sails, and find some good snorkelling sites. The coral along Cairn Beach on the Northern end of Whitsunday Island suffered very little damage from Cyclone Debbie, so there was plenty to see on the falling tide. False Nara, Caves Cove and north Stonehaven, all off Hook Island, are also relatively unscathed with fabulous bomboras and a healthy combination of hard and soft corals, fish life and turtles. 

Cairn Beach, Whitsunday Islands National Park

A Whitsunday sailing adventure is not complete without some dinghy exploration up mangrove creeks and secluded beaches. Nara, Macona and Gulnare Inlets are perfect for this activity.

Our own private beach

Noodling around in the dinghy

Mangroves abound in the Whitsundays - they provide breeding grounds for reef fish and sharks

37 million years of volcanic activity over 100 million years ago has shaped the Whitsunday landscape, leaving interesting bedrock colours and formations.

Our last stop for this trip was Langford Island, to see the trial inter-tidal sculptures along the spit, and walk the new short trail to the lookout.

Underwater art trail soon to be a permanent fixture throughout the Whitsunday Islands

View of Langford Spit, and a Whitsunday Bottle Tree (Brachychiton compactus)

Three days and three nights exploring the Whitsundays Great Barrier Reef Marine Park is a world away from anywhere else, with only the tides dictating where you go and what you do. It's hard to return to civilisation, but we can visit anytime as it's right on our doorstep. As for our guests? Well, they've booked in for next year so they can once again enjoy this pristine environment. "Everyday an absolute pleasure", was the feedback. We think so too.

Lady Katherine on anchor, Macona Inlet